Today was an easy 13kms. The last few Ks were beside a canal which made a change from the cropped wheat fields. Nothing was open along the way, so breakfast of cafe con leche and a stale croissant was at 11:00am. It is still quite cold but mercifully sunny. I warmed up a little after breakfast.
I spent a good deal of time walking around the town which is very pretty. There are an amazing number of hotels, hostels and restaurants for such a small place. I think that the canal operating system, which is just outside of town must be a big draw. It’s either that or the fact that you can get at least four stamps in your credential at various places here – a pilgrim score.
Walking around the town waiting for my Albergue to open added another 2kms to my original walk making it 15kms. I think I’ll be Ok with the 18kms tomorrow.
Once settled in my lower bunk in a lovely hostel. I set out to find lunch. Well the very nice sandwich shop next to the stale croissant place had closed for siesta. No place did ensalada mixta (mixed salad) and I didn’t feel like pizza. I skipped lunch.
I had identified a place that opened at 6:30 for dinner. Well it didn’t actually open then. Either they lied or I mis-read the 24hour clock which was posted on their schedule. Sigh.
All was not lost. I went to what I thought would be the pilgrim mass at 6:00pm. I arrived at 5:45 and was treated to a concert of organ pieces, several flute solos and an Ave Verum Corpus sung by a male soloist. It was amazing. The music ended at 6:30 and it appeared that there would be no mass.
I think that Spain should create its own brand of clocks because nothing so far has been as stated and the restaurants are never open when you need them to be. Neither are the grocery stores and anything else is anybody’s best guess. Sigh.
I realize that fasting is the new diet trend but I had to eat. I settled for a wedge of cheese from the grocery store next door and wonder of wonders I could buy a glass of white wine at my Albergue – who would have thought. I ate almost all my cheese rations without opening the crackers I bought because I wasn’t sure about the etiquette of eating in the Albergue bar. I didn’t want to disturb the hospitalero. He’s been very kind even though the reviews paint him as an ogre. I thought that crumbs in his very tidy establishment might just bring out his other side.
Anyway it has been an interesting day. It’s this eclectic mix that makes the Camino so unique.
Buen Camino