Today was more strenuous climbing but in brilliant sunshine. I walked a good part of the path with a lovely woman from Australia. She is spending six months in the south of France to realize a dream of becoming a writer. We discussed plot lines as we rose through the most incredible views. Some say you could almost touch heaven as you ascend the Pyrenees. I’m not sure you have to reach too far. Heaven may have descended to meet you.
In spite of the lovely views I was happy to start heading down. Everything seemed normal until we were given another ascent and then another. Walking through these was tiring. The views weren’t as spectacular and the paths were rougher. However nothing compares to our last 5kms
We were actually warned to avoid this descent. But I couldn’t find the alternative and all the signage pointed that way. Plus all the other pilgrims were negotiating these ankle breaking boulders, sliding on a million pesky pebbles and managing to avoid mangling tree roots. Against my better judgment I joined the throng. Well they were all younger and stronger so they sped along leaving me to pick my way at a snail’s pace for several hours to finally reach Roncesvalles.
I was rewarded for my efforts, though. The hostel is super clean, very efficient and for 7 euros they washed and dried all my laundry. Dinner is at 8:00. I’ll keep you posted.