Camino #52 – Pontevedera

From Redondelo, I had to walk 20kms to Pontevedera in order to be on track to arrive in Santiago on Sunday. Again the weather was amazing; the ascents were a challenge and the trails were busy.

I met two women from Canada- NS & NB, who were walking together. They had a tour company book their accommodation and have their packs forwarded. It was great to be able to speak English again, if only for a coffee in Arcade.

One ascent was particularly difficult with a 15% inclination on a path with very loose stones, that almost everyone was slipping on. I made it, but it was “touch and go.” The only challenge after that climb was a steep ascent of boulders with a small river running down the middle of it. A lovely pilgrim gave me a hand just when I needed it.

Unidentified Fish

I was able to book the hostel in Pontevedera ahead, so I had a bed. Having learned my lesson about the menu Del Dia. I set out to have a biggish lunch at about 2:30. The choices were hand written in Spanish with no translation. I was fine with ”ensalada,” but the main course stumped me. I just guessed and ended up with something that looked like needlefish or maybe eel. It tasted like a rather plain whitefish and there was no starch with the main course – sigh.

At 7:00 to keep myself from starvation, I found a very nice eat-in Pizza restaurant about a block away. They had a small single portion pizza for 9.00euros. With two glasses of white wine, it was delicious.

Cathedral Early Morning

I left Pontevedera in the half light the next morning. It is a very lovely old city with a striking cathedral, ancient fountains, narrow winding streets and more – definitely a place to return to.

My walk to Braillos was not as strenuous as yesterday’s climb. At the 16km mark I found the municipal hostel and secured a bed for 10.00euros in a very modern, very clean facility. It’s a little off the beaten track, so it has it’s own bar/restaurant, as well as the usual kitchen, where you can cook your own meals. Being my own tour guide I opted for the restaurant. I cook enough meals at home.

Lunch was a “bocadillo” – a traditional Spanish sandwich. This one was huge – ham, bacon, lettuce, tomato, cheese – all assembled on half a baguette. It would have fed the entire hostel – all for 4.50euros with a large coffee. I ate half and had the rest wrapped up, which I put in the fridge and will probably not take with me tomorrow. I usually just eat an apple or two and have a coffee and toast at a cafe, if I find one along the way. I have found a diet that works and I don’t want to upset the equilibrium!!

Vineyards in Spain

In spite of having food in the fridge, I decided that I needed something to soak up two glasses of wine in the evening. The restaurant attached to the hostel was very accommodating. I was able to order a plate of French Fries with mayonnaise to eat with my wine, as I write this post.

I really miss someone to chat to in the evenings. I haven’t heard English spoken now for three days.

Buen Camino

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